FAQ

Pot life is the length of time in which two-component coatings can be applied after being mixed. Once the pot life is finished, the paint properties will be lapsed, and it cannot be extended by any means (such as adding more thinner, etc.).

It is the validity time of a paint once it is produced until it’s expiration. Different types of paint and components have different shelf-lives. The shelf-life can be shortened if the storage conditions are not suitable (too hot, too cold, too much humidity etc.).

VOC means Volatile Organic Compounds. It is the amount of chemicals carbon-containing substances that vaporize at room temperature and enter the atmosphere.

DFT means Dry Film Thickness. It is the paint thickness obtained after its drying and curing. It is normally measured in microns µm. A correct DFT is essential to ensure the correct properties of the paint such as durability, corrosion protection etc.

The addition of thinner serves to reduce the paint viscosity. Not all paints need thinner. It depends on the paint type and the application method. Always check the product TDS to find out if the paint needs thinner, which thinner is allowed and recommended thinner percentage.

It depends on the paint type and the application method. Always check the product TDS to find out if the paint needs thinner, which thinner is allowed and recommended percentage.

Two-component paints are designed in certain proportions of its components. Check the product TDS to find out the correct mix ratio. Adding more or less hardener will cause paint defects such as improper curing, loss of adhesion, lower durability, and others.

Each paint manufacturer develops thinners with specific features for its product range. Using a competitor thinner may result in paint defects due to incompatibilities.

Each commercial thinner manufacturer develops thinners with different features. Using a commercial / universal thinner may result in paint defects due to incompatibilities.

It refers to the amount of paint lost or wasted during a paint application, due to several reasons such as application method, weather conditions, paint plan, surface rugosity, etc. it is expressed as a percentage of the total paint used.

The theoretical consumption is calculated without any loss percentage or surface rugosity, while the practical consumption is taking into consideration the loss percentage (more realistic consumption).

The paint components can be deteriorated and loose the designed features, as well as producing paint defects. The shelf-life of the products can be reduced too.

There are standard formulas to calculate the hull bottom and hull topsides areas. It will be necessary to know data such as the length, beam, draft, free board height. For custom surfaces like decks and superstructures, direct measurements on site would be needed. Having the general arrangements drawings can be used for areas calculations too.

Due to the chemical differences of these products, a two-component paint can produce potential failures such as adhesion problems, softening, quick degradation, etc. of the underneath one-component paint.

Paint bittiness refers to the presence of particles or impurities in the paint, that can create a rough texture after the paint application, resulting in a non-desired finishing.

It is a paint defect where blisters are formed in the surface of the painted area. Blisters can occur between paint layers, or between the paint and the substrate. The blisters can contain air or liquids, and can be localized or randomly distributed, with different sizes. It is mostly caused by moisture, contaminations presence or cathodic dis-bonding. If it is extensive, it may be necessary to total removal of the paint in the affected area.

It is the formation of small depressions or craters in the freshly painted film. It is mostly caused by contaminants, incorrect paint application technique or incorrect thinners. If it is extensive, it may be needed to remove the paint in the affected area.

The galvanic corrosion is produced when two dissimilar metals are in direct contact, and the weaker metal corrodes itself. It can be prevented by avoiding using dissimilar metals, or by effectively insulating the two metals by inserting a suitably sized spacer or suitable insulating material.

Amine blush or bloom is a thin, waxy, or greasy film on the surface of a paint that will produce severely decrease in adhesion of subsequent layers. It may not be visible. It is formed by a chemical reaction of the amines during the coating drying, with high relative humidity or condensation presence. It must be removed with (preferably hot) freshwater cleaning and/or detergent.

If the humidity content in the wood is above 18%, the inside water content may eventually evaporate and produce adhesion failures of the coating applied over the humid wood.

By using PH neutral cleaning products and making a previous small test in a discrete area.

Metals must be clean, dry and have a good surface roughness or profile (rugosity) before applying paint. There are different methods: abrasive blasting, mechanical cleaning, etc. The prepared surface must have a uniformly roughness. Non-ferrous metals (like aluminum) must be prepared with non-metallic abrasives.

Follow the overcoating times indicated by the manufacturer of the polyester/vinyl ester resin/s used in the lamination phase (generally about 30 days.). Composites with peel-ply: remove the peel-ply, if the exposed substrate is in not good condition and/or contaminated, degrease, provide rugosity with sandpaper P40-P80 and clean before application of paints. GRP with gelcoat: provide rugosity with sandpaper P60-P80. GRP without gelcoat: provide rugosity with sandpaper P60-P80.

Paints can be removed by mechanical means, abrasive blasting, water jetting or using chemical products, taking care to remove any contaminant afterwards. The resulting surface must be clean, free of contaminants and uniformly rough.

The surface roughness refers to a surface that it is roughened, and not smooth. The irregularities and texture provide mechanical adhesion to the paints applied over the substrate.

After the surface preparation of a metal, it is recommended to apply the first coat before the surface loses its preparation standard, typically max 24 hours for ferrous metals and 4 hours for aluminum substrates (presents colour variation and/or signs of oxidation). It will depend on the weather conditions and condensation. The recommended maximum time to coat a composite after its preparation is 48 hours. Losing the surface preparation standard will cause premature paint failures.

It is recommended to do a small test in a discrete area. Check product TDS for further information.

Prepare the painting by mixing the components in the correct proportions indicated in the product TDS. It is recommended to mix complete kits to avoid a wrong mixing ratio that may reduce the paint designed protection. If less paint is needed, smaller amounts may be prepared in a mixing ratio cup. Mix the product thoroughly, preferably using a mechanical mixer.

The dilution must be always done after mixing all paint components. Check the product TDS for indicated thinner type and proportion (generally expressed in percentages over the total paint amount). Using a mixing ratio cup or a ruler may be useful. Mix the product thoroughly, preferably using a mechanical mixer.

The surface temperature must be at least 3ºC above Dew Point to avoid surface condensation. The optimal application and curing temperature are 20ºC. Check the product TDS to find minimum and maximum temperatures.

Applying paints needs to be planned to start when the weather conditions are suitable for application and curing. Avoid painting during the hottest hours of the day and avoid painting during the late afternoon / night to ensure a proper curing.

High humidity can lead to severe paint defects such as improper curing, amine exudation, etc.

High temperatures can lead to paint defects that will reduce the designed life and protection of paints, such as very high viscosity, poor adhesion, blistering, cracking, peeling, etc. Low temperatures can lead to paint defects that will reduce the designed life and protection of paints, such as slow drying, poor film formation, cracking, etc. Check the product TDS to check the specific application temperature range.

The temperature at which condensation is formed in a surface.

Overcoating times are the minimum and maximum times when a paint can be overcoated with chemical adhesion. If the maximum overcoating time is exceeded, there will not be chemical adhesion, and the surface will need to be roughened to provide physical adhesion before being overcoated.

The minimum overcoating time establishes the minimum time that the previous coat needs to dry and cure before receiving subsequent coats. Painting before this minimum time can compromise the durability and quality of the paint system, and may produce defects such as wrinkling, poor adhesion, bubbles, softening, etc.

The main application methods are roller, air-less or air assisted /conventional. Choosing between the different application methods will depend on the product, paint plan, number of paint applicators, required thickness and finishing, isolation from other projects, indoor or exterior facilities, etc. Check product TDS to check the recommended application methods for each product.

BPR or Biocidal Products Regulation is an anti-fouling regulation within the European Union. BPR regulates the biocidal products market through an authorization process. It includes an EU list of reduced and authorized active ingredients. BPR promotes, especially for DIY use, a substantial reduction of copper oxide as a main biocide, encouraging the development of increasingly eco-friendly / natural secondary biocides.

It is an official document that certifies that a specific anti-fouling complies with the IMO (International Maritime Organization’s) regulations of anti-fouling, ensuring that it doesn’t contain harmful substances for the environment that can cause ecological damage.

It is an official document that certifies that a specific anti-fouling does not contain tributyltin (TBT) compounds, which are harmful to the marine environment.

Anti-fouling is the paint applied to the underwater areas of ships in order to prevent or reduce the adhesion and growth of biofouling. Consequently, it provides a better fuel economy, reduction of CO2 emissions and extended corrosion protection. It avoids the translocation of invasive species.

There are 3 main types of anti-fouling technology. Firstly, the SPC – Self-polishing type works by controlled polishing itself by a chemical hydrolysis reaction, releasing biocides and binder. Secondly, the FR – Fouling Release type works by combining a physical feature with low surface tension that provides difficulty to the organisms to adhere to it, with biocides. The third type is CDP – Controlled Depletion Polymer which can be divided into traditional Self-Polishing (biocides releasing and paint film dissolution) and Hard Matrix (only biocides releasing, without or low paint film dissolution).

Both are CDP – Controlled Depletion Polymer anti-foulings. The Self-Polishing anti-fouling combines the biocides releasing with the paint film dissolution. The Hard Matrix works by biocides releasing, and it has abrasion resistance.

Anti-fouling effectiveness depends on the thickness applied. The recommended thickness must be achieved in several coats, depending on the application method. Roller application can achieve around 100 wet microns per coat, while airless application can achieve between 100 – 150 wet microns per coat. Always check product TDS and Boero Technical Specification to find the recommended thickness per coat.

The anti-fouling type must match the hull needs of durability / dry dock interval, navigation frequency, water temperature, depth and salinity, average navigation speed, maximum navigation speed, local biocide regulations, inactivity periods, etc. Check your local Boero Representative and product TDS to find out which anti-fouling best matches your requirements: boat type, location, speed, time in use, anti-fouling performance period etc.

Anti-fouling are effective for determined time periods called dry dock intervals, which normally are divided into seasons, 12 months, 24 months and 36 months. There are different anti-fouling types designed to each dry dock interval. The applied paint thickness is very important to achieve the desired DD interval.

Anti-fouling must be repainted once the dry dock interval is expired, or when the underwater area is in a poor condition (fouling growing, presence of paint defects, etc.).

Always check which is the current anti-fouling applied: self-polishing (traditional or SPC) or hard matrix. When the anti-fouling are in a good condition, self-polishing anti-fouling is compatible with another self-polishing anti-fouling, a hard matrix type is compatible with another hard matrix or self-polishing anti-fouling. If the anti-fouling is in a bad condition, or if the current anti-fouling is unknown or a self-polishing that will be overcoated with hard matrix type, it will be necessary to apply one coat of insulation or sealer before the anti-fouling application.

The anti-fouling quantity is calculated based on the area to be painted (sqm) and product total thickness. Check the product calculator at the Boero webpage or contact your local Boero representative to know the anti-fouling quantity that will be necessary.

Check the product TDS, where thinner type, name and proportion is indicated for each product.

If the anti-fouling is in a bad condition, or if the current anti-fouling is unknown or a self-polishing that will be overcoated with hard matrix type, it will be necessary to apply one coat of insulation or sealer before the anti-fouling application.

Anti-fouling paints do not have water barrier properties for the substrates and high adhesion properties. Gelcoats do not have these features too. Always apply a water barrier with primers before anti-fouling application, also to guarantee the paint system adhesion.

When doing any boat maintenance be sure to check the restrictions in your local marina. Once you have established that you are allowed to carry out in-water bottom cleaning on your vessel there are several aspects to bear in mind before you start that we will cover below, one of these is the anti-fouling type. Self-polishing anti-fouling: should be cleaned by gently sweeping a soft cloth, sponge or soft brush along the surface of the hull. Scrubbing this type of paint will cause large clouds of toxic chemicals to be released into the water, this can damage the environment and even cause a buildup of nasty chemicals in the food chain. Caution: human safety for the operator (gloves recommended). Hard Matrix anti-fouling: can be scrubbed a bit more thoroughly than self-polishing. The surface can be cleaned by gently sweeping a cloth, scrotch-brite or sponge or firm brush along the surface of the hull. You should be sure to use the least abrasive material that is effective for the job to prevent the release of toxic materials into the water and reduce your environmental impact.
Using a wire brush or scraper will still lead to some bottom paint damage and cause the release of toxic biocide into the water.

The minimum time after the application of the last coat of anti-fouling is 12 hours. The maximum time outdoors, with the hull unprotected, is one month. If the hull underwater is protected / masked, the maximum time is 9 months (it requires a low-pressure freshwater cleaning before immersion).

The overcoating time after the primer application will vary according with the applied thickness and the weather conditions. Check the product TDS and Boero Technical Specification to check the overcoating times.

It is not recommended, as the pigments will block the polishing rate of the anti-fouling, reducing the performance.

Over the years, upon many dry docks and painting, the total thickness of the paint is too high, losing its adherence properties, producing paint defects such as paint detachments, surface irregularities, increase weigh, that will contribute to an increase of fouling attachment and worse navigation. As a market standard, the hulls should be refurbished after 10 years as an average.

If the anticorrosive system is in a good condition, anti-fouling paint can be removed by exposing the primers below it. The removal can be done by mechanical means or light abrasive blasting. If paint strippers are used, they must be completely removed, and the surface perfectly cleaned. Take into consideration that the remaining primers must be smooth, undamaged and additional primers applied to restore the anticorrosive barrier and adhesion properties.

All anti-fouling develops leached layers as an intrinsic process. It is the outermost layer in contact with the water in which the biocide is no longer present but has been completely released. It is a mechanically weak layer. The leaching rate is the quantity of biocides released per day.

Anti-fouling are usually superficially abraded to remove the remaining leached layer, loose / poor adhered material, etc. As well, this will provide a superficial rugosity that will improve the adhesion of the subsequent coats.

An anti-fouling can be consumed if the planned dry dock interval is extended, or if the navigation frequency, water temperature, depth and salinity, average navigation speed, maximum navigation speed, local biocide regulations, inactivity periods, etc. don’t match the applied anti-fouling characteristics.

Keeping the hull underwater in a good condition, with a smooth surface, free of fouling and paint defects such as paint detachments, blisters, etc. all will reduce drag of the hull.

Anti-fouling can be applied with polyamide long pile rollers (hair/fibres approx.14mm), which can achieve around 70-80microns wet per coat.
Heavy Primers can be applied with polyamide long pile rollers (hair/fibres approx.14mm), which can achieve around 60-80microns wet per coat. Please note this will leave a textured surface.
Light Primers can be applied with polyamide short pile rollers (hair/fibres approx. 10mm), which can achieve around 45-60microns wet per coat.
Undercoats can be applied with mohair rollers (hair/fibres approx. 4mm), that will achieve around 25-40 microns wet per coat.
Topcoats can be applied with mohair, foam and combination rollers (foam with polyamide fibres) that will achieve around 15-40 microns per coat, dependent on dilution/thinning of the topcoat.

Note:
To achieve the recommended product DFT with a roller application, it is likely that multiple coats will need to be applied, on order to achieve the required film thickness.
When using a foam roller with two-component topcoats, use a high quality, solvent resistant foam type, to avoid the paint/solvents destroying or dissolving the roller.
A brush can be used for ‘tipping off’ – brushing the wet surface after roller application, removing bubbles, surface texture and smoothing the surface.

Boottop / style lines are sensitive to paint detachments due to several reasons. Painting or polishing on the hull topsides is the main source of spills and contamination of the boottop, such as overspray, dust, etc. which will produce later detachments on the boottop paint. Adhesive tapes may leave adhesive residues. Excessive paint accumulation is normally found in this area too, after several dry dock paintings. In addition to this, most ports have floating contaminators such as oil or fuel on the water surface, directly affecting the boottops. Cleaning on board will deposit dirty water runs on the hull surface.

Protect the boottop during hull topsides painting or polishing, by completely masking it. Use appropriate adhesive tapes that don’t leave adhesives and eliminate any adhesive residue when the tapes are removed. Avoid excessive paint thickness by superficially abrading before applying additional anti-fouling layers. Decontaminate the boottop before sanding it, as sanding a contaminated surface will introduce the contamination deep into the paint film. Cleaning on board must be followed by hull cleaning, to avoid dirty water runs on the surface.

All Boero two-component primers are suitable for all substrates. Check product TDS for details of surface preparation and recommended thickness.

All Boero two-component primers are suitable for stainless steel. Check product TDS for details of surface preparation and recommended thickness.

As a general rule, it is considered that 300 microns is the minimum anticorrosive barrier. The recommended thickness must be achieved in several coats, depending on the application method. Roller applications can achieve around 80-100 wet microns per coat, while airless application can achieve between 150 – 200 wet microns per coat. Always check product TDS and Boero Technical Specification to find the recommended thickness per coat.

Topcoats are naturally deteriorated by their exposure to the sun, UV light, sea salt, etc. An improper maintenance with aggressive cleaning can accelerate this deterioration too. As a market standard, the hulls on average are repainted after 5-6 years.

Topcoats can be repaired. Depending on the topcoat condition, the topcoats repair is divided in touch-up (local / partial repair) or refit (complete re painting). The actual condition of the topcoat and the extension of the damaged areas will define the type of repair. Old topcoats must be primed with an undercoat before the new topcoat is applied.

All Challenger Pro range can be repaired, with dedicated products, following the Boero Technical Specification and Product TDS, it also can be polished, following Boero Technical Guidelines. It should be noted that polishing can reduce the long-term performance (gloss and colour of the coating).

Always perform a small test in a discreet area to test the products compatibility. Sealing the existing topcoat with an undercoat primer will improve the adhesion and aesthetic characteristics of the new topcoat applied. Contact your local Boero Representative for further information.

To clean the topcoat, rinse with fresh water: use a hose to remove salt, dirt, and loose debris.
Use a pH neutral, mild soap solution: Mix marine soap with water or use a specialized boat cleaner.
Scrub gently: Use a soft-bristle brush or a non-abrasive sponge to avoid scratching the topcoat.
Rinse thoroughly: remove all soap to avoid residue buildup and dry with a soft cloth: use a microfiber cloth to prevent water spots.
Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive pads, as they can damage the finish.

Polyester fillers are weak, porous and non-suitable for marine corrosive environments.

Boero undercoats are compatible with superficially abraded two-component topcoats.

Yes, superficially abrading is always necessary to provide mechanical adhesion to the subsequent coats to be applied.

It may be possible in certain circumstances, but it is recommended to apply an undercoat before to achieve the best features of color uniformity, coverage and aesthetical results.

Anti-skid is related to a surface that impedes slipping off. It is normally used in decks, and it is achieved by adding additives to the paint or the paint surface.

Boero anti-skid grip additives can be added to the mixed topcoat, to be directly applied on decks, or it can be sprinkled over already freshly applied topcoats. The technique used will influence its aesthetical result.

Direct gloss topcoats must be fully cured and superficially sanded before the application of a clear coat.

It is the deterioration of the immersed fiberglass due to water absorption. The water gradually penetrates the fibre and reacts with the uncured resins, generating blisters with acidic liquid, that will grow-up until breaking-up and weakening the mechanical strength of the structure.

Osmosis presence can be basically detected by measuring the inner humidity content with a moisture meter, by visually inspecting the area for blisters presence, and by checking the pH of the liquid inside the blisters. If the moisture content is higher than 15-20% it will imply osmosis presence. Osmosis blisters can vary from size and distribution and can be visually detected. If the liquid inside the osmosis blisters is acidic (pH between 3 and 5), it would be a strong indicator of osmosis presence, as the reaction between water and uncured resins produce acidic degradation products.

The first step for preventing osmosis is using high quality materials and proper curing of resins during the GRP fabrication. The second step means preventing the water absorption inside the structure, by applying an anticorrosive barrier that will protect the hull. Regular maintenance, repairing any damage will prevent the water penetration.

Once the osmosis is started it cannot be reversed. Although, it can be controlled and minimized with an osmosis repair:

1. Removal of all paints to expose the bare substrate.
2. Drying the hull below 10% of inner moisture content. This process will take several weeks or months to complete and requires blisters opening and regular freshwater cleaning to remove the salts left on the surface during the drying.
3. First coat of primer application by brush to ensure painting all the surface irregularities.
4. Fairing the surface to restore the smoothness.
5. Continue with primer application until achieving the required thickness.
6. Anti-fouling system application.

The number of coats applied for will vary with the required finishing. As a standard, a minimum of 3-4 coats are applied. For superior finishing, minimum >8 coats are applied.

Yes, it is possible to paint over tinted or stained wood, but there are a few key steps to ensure the paint adheres properly and the final finish looks good. You have to clean and sand the surface, then apply a proper paint according to the TDS of the product.

Acrylic varnishes can be polished. On the contrary, it is not recommendable to polish polyester varnishes. For mixing systems, it is possible to build-up the first layers with a polyester varnish and apply an acrylic varnish for the last coats, so they can be polished.

Impregnants are usually applied highly diluted to penetrate the wood porosity, without build-up a layer over the wood surface, which facilitates the interface with the varnishes. When using Boero one-component impregnants, it is possible to apply two-component varnish over it.

Normally one or two coats are enough. There is a risk of irregular coloration when applying too many coats of colored impregnants.

It will depend on the weather conditions. Normally at an average of 20ºC, it can be applied 3 coats per day, wet on wet, without sanding.

It will depend on the weather conditions. Normally at an average of 20ºC, it can be applied 2 coats per day, wet on wet, without sanding. Refer to the TDS of the product for the overcoating interval.

The optimum ambient temperature is between 15 – 25ºC. Minimum temperature for one-component varnish could be 5ºC, and maximum relative humidity 85%. Since these conditions are dependent on the product, refer to the TDS of the product. The area must be in the shade without direct sunlight. It is not recommendable to varnish during the night or in foggy, rainy or windy conditions.

Sand the wood with P120 -P180 before the impregnant application. After 24 hours, sand it with P320 – P400. The first coat of varnish can be sanded with P220 – P320. Last coats of varnish must be sanded with P400 – P500.

To clean varnished wood effectively dust regularly using a soft, dry cloth to remove surface dirt.
Wipe with a damp cloth: Use a cloth dampened with water or a mild soap solution. Avoid soaking the wood. Dry immediately with a clean, dry cloth to prevent water damage.
Avoid abrasive cleaners or excessive water, as they can damage the varnish.

Ethyl alcohol is a suitable cleaner for wood, as it will not leave residues or moisture in the wood structure.

Find the Boero distribution network at the Boero web page: STORE LOCATOR

You will find, and also download, Boero YachtCoatings Technical Data Sheets in the product section, inside each product page.